Noto & Palazzo Del Castelluccio

London, 14th of September 2020

After staying in Catania for two days we traveled south towards the city of Noto. Well known for being a UNESCO Heritage site, Noto has been transformed even more in recent years. It has always reminded me of an elegant seaside town even though you are in the country side. Noto in itself is small and can easily be seen in a day and a half. Walking down the Corso Vittoria Emanuele, which is the main artery of the town you'll find most of the things the city is known for. But as per usual its the little streets where one finds real treasures.

We were sleeping in a B&B located on the first floor of a little palazzo on the Via Cavour the other main street of Noto with some rather lovely views of the street and the town. Noto is small and cozy and the locals friendly and used to tourists. We arrived in the late afternoon so after a little rest we changed and got ready for our passeggiata followed by aperitivo of course. The weather was mild (31c) and the sun was setting so all in all, Noto at its best.

We strolled down the very steep street to Corso Vittorio Emanuele and walked past the compulsory 'must sees'. The cathedral perched high above the street flanked by monasteries, a town hall, a theater, churches and other elegant buildings. A whirlwind of 18th century baroque architecture, beautifully kept and impressive enough to convert even the most staunch modernist. Being lazy, we had aperitivo at a bar just off the high street, the usual Aperol and Campari Spritz accompanied by some savoury delicacies. But before we strolled any further and decide what to have for supper, we had a very important meeting with the Marchese del Castelluccio.

Just a few doors down from where we were staying was Palazzo del Castelluccio on the Via Cavour. Palazzo del Castelluccio was once in the possession of the Marquises of Castelluccio but after the death of the last Marquis in 1981, the palace was deserted and inherited by the Knights of the Order of Malta. Until a private individual purchased it from them and completely refurbished the palazzo with local architect Corrado Papa to its former glory.
Behind its Neoclassical facade is a small courtyard with a much older main building behind it. Lovely and semi cool in the shade. When I peek around the corner I catch a glimpse of the Scudirie (the stables) and stairs leading up to a rather lovely looking terrace. But we start our visit at the grand staircase leading up to the piano nobile which is completely decorated with some very fine etchings. The palace boasts 105 rooms all restored with an astonishing attention to detail. It looks like a very comfortable and elegant house and how it might have been in the 18th and 19th century, very much unlike a museum which I think is part of its appeal.
The rooms are paved with the customary hand painted Sicilian tiles worn away in some places to remind us perhaps of the people who were there before us. Like friendly ghosts who accompany us whilst we walk through the rooms. The rooms, all decorated in their own remarkable way. The wall hangings are the most striking of all, ranging from a simple silk upholstery to a wildly romantic flower motif to an absolutely astonishing trompe l'oeil tented room in the warmest, most luscious gold colour you've probably ever seen. A library filled with leather bound books about Sicilian architecture, history and art. A lovely little chapel, and a dining room leading to the terrace with a view of the courtyard.


A room in a delicate shade of pink that when the breeze blew the Jasmine scent through the sheer lace curtains, I felt very much at home and transported to a place where the past meets the present or perhaps where the present meets the past and strangely blends with my summer memories of long ago.


Apart from the console in the entrance hall, everything has been sourced from local antique dealers. This makes the palace look incredibly interesting, eclectic and anything but new and refurbished. It looks exactly how it would or could have looked when the last Marchese lived there. A blend of styles and influences, very much like Sicily herself. Some pieces that were taken with them at the time, from old Noto before the destructive earthquake, memories of a past life mixing with a new chapter gazing into the future.


Palazzo dell Castelluccio certainly isn't the only Palazzo in Noto. Only around the corner you'll find Palazzo Nicolacci with its impressive ballroom and enfiladed rooms. And opposite there another Palazzo. Which we viewed after supper one evening because we had a lovely conversation with the proprietor. Noto is place were I think I fell in love, perhaps with something which isn't there anymore, as I often do. But it's very much worth a visit and to walk past antique shops and Palazzo's, churches and to enjoy countless granita's, next time at my favourite Cafe Sicilia which was closed for refurbishment.


A Presto!


Love,


F.

Noto.

A few details of a fabulous tented trompe l'oeil room.

The first thing I did every morning was to smell the Jasmine that scented our entire courtyard!

One of my favourite rooms at Palazzo del Castelluccio.